Satin and sateen are two similar types of weave where the surface of the fabric consists almost entirely of floated warp or weft threads. During the weaving process, the warp/weft threads pass over all but one of the threads in the other direction.
With a satin weave, the majority of the surface is made of warp threads. It creates a fabric with a lustrous surface and a dull back. Satin fabric is traditionally made of silk; however, today it is also made of polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate. It’s used for pajamas, neckties, ballet shoes,etc. And another side sateen has a surface made up of mostly weft threads. This is soft with a shiny appearance similar to satin; however, it is made of cotton instead of silk or nylon. It is used for bed sheets or lining jackets,etc.
Satin Weave :
- Satin fabric is made from filament yarns, with the warp yarns
predominant on the face. - Satin fabrics are smooth and lustrous because lustrous filament yarns
are used; there are few interlacing points, that gives long floats; and the
face yarns are fine and closely packed. - Since the greatest lustre is in the lengthwise (warp) direction, garments
using this fabric in warp direction show lustre effect.
Sateen Weave :
- Sateen fabric is a durable cotton fabric, usually with weft face satin weave.
- It is not lustrous as satin fabric as spun yarns are used.
- Since it is also heavier, with thicker yarns, it is not as drapable as satin fabric.
The Variances:
On average, the satin and sateen weaving follows a four thread over and one thread under pattern. However, it’s the way this pattern is executed that makes the fabrics slightly different from one another. Referred to as weft or warp, the ‘one under, four over’ pattern can be done in a variety of intervals (i.e. for satin: one under, four over; one over, one under, three over. For sateen: one over, four under; one under, one over, three under etc.) While satin follows a 4/1 pattern (warp), sateen has a ¼ (weft). Although they vary by interval and pattern, this form of weaving actually helps to maximize the threads that are visible on the top-side of the fabric–the lustrous side–giving the fabric a two-dimensional appearance.
